STREET TRENDS: Origins and Modern Interpretations

 

1. TEDDY BOY
 

 

 

 

 

 

1. TEDDY BOY, Circa 1958 London-The “Teddy Boy” look developed in London in the 1950’s. The idea behind it was the creation of acceptability for youth to dress up in dapper ensembles for everyday style. The look was comprised of ; long jackets, high-waist trousers, and colorful socks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. "Teddy Boy" Look; Commes des Garcon, Winter 2009

1. "Teddy Boy" Look; Commes des Garcon, Winter 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. ZOOT SUITS

2. ZOOT SUIT, Circa. 1943 Chicago-This oversized silhouette of a wide jacket and tapered baggy trousers first developed in the late 1930’s. They were typically worn my minorities (latinos, blacks, Italians, etc) and eventually came to symbolize rebellion to the white majority. The “Zoot Suit Riots” was an unfortunate event in 1940’s Los Angeles that solidified this stereotype.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. "Zoot Suit" Look, Dior Homme, Fall 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. "Zoot Suit" Look, Dior Homme, Fall 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. BEATNIK

 

 

 

 

 

3. “Beatnik” Audrey Hepburn, “Funny Face” 1957-The Beatnik movement was another youth driven idea that supposedly represented the “beaten down” citizens of society. In the early 1950’s, “beatniks” wore all black, turtlenecks, berets, and dark glasses to differentiate themselves. Interestingly enough, the late YSL was said to have been a hugely influencial designer on Beatnik fashion with introduction of sleek menswear looks to women’s fashion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. "Beatnik" Look Armani, Fall 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. "Beatnik" Look, Karoo Mark Eisen, Spring 2006

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. MODS

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. MODS, Mary Quant, Circa.1962-The “Mod” look of the 1960’s was characterized by short bobs, bold prints and the introduction of the mini dress. Designers such as Mary Quant and YSL were especially significant during this time as was infamous model Twiggy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. MODS, Twiggy, Circa.1963

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. "Mod" Look, Eley Kishimoto, Fall 2009

 

 

4. "Mod" Look, Alice+Olivia, Spring 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. HIPPIES

 

 

 

 

 

5. Hippies, Circa.1962-The Hippy Movement was probably one of the most memorable youth sub-cultural influences of all time. Beginning in the early 1960’s, “hippies” can be seen as a later off-shoot of the “Beatnik” groups. The hippies liberal values that centered around physical/sexual freedom, drugs, and the overall embracing of peace. The attire worn by this group was a mix of denim bottoms, tunic tops, and sandals.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. "Hippie" Look, Anna Sui, Fall 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. "Hippie" Look, Anna Sui, Fall 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. DISCO

 

 

 

6. Disco, Media Advertisement, Circa.1972-In the early to mi 1970’s, the Disco Movement began. This was a bit of a music revolution that spurned a corresponding fashion movement of flashy ornate clothing worn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. "Disco" Style, Jean Paul Gaultier, Spring 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. "Disco" Look, Balmain, Spring 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. PUNK

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. Punk, Sex Pistols, Circa.1977-Once again, the U.K. can be cited as being responsible for a youth underground ideal. In this case, the “Punk” movement, which began in the late 1970’s and went through the early 1980’s, was intended to challenge the mainstream music industry. The eccentric and grungy fashion of bands like The Ramones and the Sex Pistols began to spill into the mainstream.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. "Punk" Style, Vivienne Westwood, Fall 2009

7. "Punk" Style, Vivienne Westwood, Fall 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8. HIP HOP

 

8. HIP HOP, Grandmaster Flash, Circa.1980-The hip hop culture began to develop in the late 1970's with innovative artists like Grandmaster Flash. Upon inception, the hip hop scene spurned a unique street style of jumpsuits, sneakers,casual separates, and elaborate jewelry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8. "Hip Hop" Style, Louis Vuitton sneakers, 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8. "Hip Hop" Style, Dsquared, Summer 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. BOHEMIAN

 

 

 

 

 

9. BOHEMIAN, French Actress-Thelma Todd, 1920-Many people tend to confuse the look resulting from the Bohemian Movement with the Hippie looks of the 1960's. In contrast, Bohemianism originated in France in the 1880's, it described as the practice of unconventional style by those with similar interests (i.e. music, literature, art, etc.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. "Bohemian" Style, Etro,Fall 2009

9. "Bohemian" Look, Etro, Fall 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. DECONSTRUCTION

 

 

10. DECONSTRUCTION-Commes des Garcons for H&M, 2008- The idea of Deconstruction gained ground in the fashion scene of the 1990's. The look was often ragged, torn, raw designs that were anti-glamour. Design houses such as Commes des Garcon mastered this look and still keep it as a staple style in their annual collections.

 

10. "Deconstruction" Style, Commes des Garcons, Spring 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. "Deconstruction" Style, Commes des Garcons, Fall 2008

Fashion and Art- Major Influences

1. POP ART

1. POP ART-Any Warhol Print

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. POP ART-YSL Dress 1963

 

2. English Country

2. ENGLISH COUNTRY- Metropolitan Museum, 1700's

 

2. ENGLISH COUNTRY- D&G, Fall 2008

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. BYZANTINE ART

3. BYZANTINE ART- A Period Painting

 

3. BYZANTINE ART- Etro, Fall 2008

4. ORIENTALISM

4. ORIENTALISM- Period Painting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. ORIENTALISM- Alexander Mcqueen Kimono Dresses, Spring 2008

 

5. ART DECO

5. ART DECO- Madge Evans, Cinema Star

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. ETRUSCAN ART

 

6. ETRUSCAN ART- Period Painting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. ETRUSCAN ART- Nike "Roman" sandal

 

6. ETRUSCAN ART- Chanel Lace-up Sandal

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Geneology the Handbag: Pre-historic to Present

PRE-HISTORIC POUCHES- were made from twisted fibers or animal skins.

The origin of the handbag is said to come from the usage of totes by men during biblical times. They were called “pockets” or “girdles” and hung from the back of the waist to carry flint, spices, money, and other valuables.

Fast-forward to the 1300’s when the handbag evolved into jeweled toes carried by both men and women to show their wealth. At this point in history, the handbag became purely an accessory as opposed to a practical use item.

Around the late 1800’s and the beginning of the twentieth century, we see handbags return but in a more practical fashion. In fact, men’s briefcases and satchels were the first item to officially use the term “handbag”. Shortly thereafter, women began carrying small purses more frequently to conceal their personal toiletries and accessories.

Interestingly enough, the ever popular clutch style of handbag developed a couple of decades later with the textile shortages of WWII. Less availibilty of leather and other fine goods meant that manufacturers had to turn to cheaper substitiutes for bag making and use less materials overall. The result was the trendy clutch, a small bag frequently made from plastic materials.

Another development in the handbag came around between 1950-1960. It was during the post-war era that the return to extarvageance in fashion began. Designers begin releaseing more accessory pieces and the birth of the “designer handbag” came about.

Currently, handbags share the usage of functionality and style. As in centuries past, many of us see certain bags as a way to communicate our social status by wearing brands or designs that are well known luxury products. Ironically enough, this growing trend has also spurned the growth of a multi-million dollar counterfeit industry that lurks in almost every major city worldwide. From the late 1980’s-present, we have seen a rise in knock-off handbags from almost every price point.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN HIEROGLYPHICS show men carrying purses

13th-16th Century, FRENCH EMBROIDERED BAG

1930s-1920s CARRY-ALL compact purses

1920's-1930's CARRY-ALL compact purses

WWII era SUITCASE BAG, a time when the ornate handbag became more sparse and consumers chose function over fashion.

1955, Designer bags exploded, one of the most iconic being the original CHANEL 2.55 PURSE

1960 inspired bag, show the use of many man-made materials to create fun handbags.

1990's Hermes bags, this decade continued with the growth of the luxury bag industry

2000-PRESENT, this image shows a CHLOE bag from spring 2009

2000-PRESENT, this image shows PRADA 2006 bag collections

2000-PRESENT, MODERN CLUTCH from DONNA KARAN resort 2010

2000-PRESENT, PRADA AD campaign 2009

FUTURE  TRENDS……….

FUTURISTIC TRENDS; STILETTO BAG-Bezalel Academy of Art and Design Jerusalem

FUTURISTIC TREND; CHANEL ANKLE BAG, spring 2008

FUTURISTIC TREND; CHANEL HARDCASE bag

FUTURISTIC TREND; LV SKATEBOARD CASE for the fashion-conscience of the skater scene.

History of Tailored and Draped Looks: Part 2

Draped Looks…

1. DRAPED STYLES-MODERN UPDATE: Men in skirts.

2.Draped Style– Ancient Egypt: Most wealthy women in ancient Egypt were found wearing a garment known as the Kalasiris. The wrapped style usually included one large piece of cloth and ornate necklaces.

2. Draped Style-Modern Update: Egyptian-inspired dresses in mini and maxi lengths.

3.Draped Style– Ancient Greece: The “draped” looks of this time included the commonly touted Chiton garment. This consisted of a long sleeveless sheath that was girded up by a belt into a blouson style. This style was worn around 500BC-300BC.

3.Draped Style-Modern Update: Athena Dress, Designer: Beau Soleil

History of Style; Draped and Tailored Looks.

Tailored Looks…

1.TAILORED STYLE-KOREA: During the 1600's, traditional Korean dress included long, high-waisted skirt, a tied sash, and a long-sleeved top.

1. TAILORED STYLE-MODERN UPDATE: A more sleek version of Korean-inspired garments take center stage on the runway.

2. TAILORED STYLE-EDWARDIAN CORSETRY: During the “Edwardian Era”, women used corsets to mold their bodies into the fashionable garments of the day.

2. TAILORED STYLE-MODERN UPDATE: The practice of “corseting” is still done in fashion but women now follow a more realistic silhouette.

3. TAILORED STYLE-MEXICAN TRADITIONAL: The famed Mexican painter Frida Khalo proudly displayed her heritage to the world through her traditional regional dress of brightly colored woven tops and floor length skirts.

3.TAILORED STYLE-MODERN UPDATE: Current designers have adapted the traditional Mexican style to embody bright textiles and modern cuts.

6 Functions of Dress…. via: foot fetishes, sororities, and the like!!!

1. Environmental Protection:

In Medieval Celtic society, the name of the game was definitely “layering”. The parts of Europe where these and similar cultures originated include Scotland, Ireland, etc. It goes without saying that cold, harsh climates in these areas required the fashionable garments of the day to consist of many built in barriers to the elements. The picture included for this example shows traditional garments consisting of; a base smock, a layered tunic, and an outer cloak. Dates/Designer: 13th century.

1.ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

2. Decoration:

One of the oldest forms of decorative dress is that of tribal custom wear. In this example, pictures of the elaborately colorful Maasai Tribal garments are shown on two young women. Dates/Designer: 2008

2. DECORATION

2. DECORATION

3. Gender Differentiation:

In most modern societies, gender differentiation may seem like a bit of an outdated concept. Sure, the majority of us still dress in ways that easily identify us appropriately as either masculine or feminine. However, there is arguably a lot of grey area within those two categories. One stage of live where the clear division of sexes via clothing is still used is in infancy. Take for instance the stereotypical blue vs. pink attire for young boys and girls. Dates/Designer: 2005

3. GENDER DIFFERENTIATION

3. GENDER DIFFERENTIATION

4. Group Membership:

As with any other group activity (athletic, social, or academic…) , Greek organizations require their members to identify themselves with a particular style of dress. In this case, the Alpha Kappa Alpha Sorority is a historically black women’s group in which its thousands of members worldwide all sport various combinations of pink and green to show their affiliation. This type of membership and the dress that accompanies it are all means of pride in the heritage and values of the organization. Dates/Designer: 2008

4. GROUP MEMBERSHIP

4.GROUP MEMBERSHIP

5. Ceremonialism:

My favorite example of  this element is that of the wedding ceremony. As I mentioned in my posting notes for this module, the wedding industry is still one that remains fairly untouched by any economic woes that may befall this country…….brides of all generations have always been determined to maintain the usage of special dress when it come to this symbolic event. Dates/Designer: 2009&1956; Image 1-Vera Wang

5. CEREMONIALISM

5. CEREMONIALISM

6. Sexual Enhancement:

The ancient practice of Chinese foot binding was once considered a requirement for the young Chinese women to attract a husband. It was thought that the unbound foot was large and grotesque, and only those of the poorest class had “normal” sized feet. Anyone else of decent social standing had their daughter’s feet bound at a very young age. The bound foot, often called the “Golden Lotus”, was thought to be extremely sexually enticing and most women had an entire wardrobe of specially made tiny booties to wear to enhance the feminine wiles of their 2inch-3inch feet. The images included show surviving Chinese women with bound feet as well as an example of the shoes worn. Dates/Designer: 2005

6. SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

6. SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

6. SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

My Inspirations…nature’s treasure chest.

I am truly inspired by any an all forms of natural landscapes and organisms as they relate to design and fashion. Everything from the texture of a fabric to the intricacy of a hand-crafted flower detail on a dress screams organic inspiration. I think that each of us as individual artists can testify to the influence of our natural surroundings as innate influences of our creativity!

fish to dress to runway ....

What is next in sustainable design?

 

Hello All!

I want to first start by thanking you for taking the time to review my blog! This week’s topic centers around a topic of much interest in the current apparel market….SUSTAINIBLITY! My angle on this subject will not be an attempt to pull at your heart strings with some lame ( but sometimes relevant) argument about how all manufacturers should be converting to some sort of eco-friendly production, or how our textile mill waste is slowly destroying the global water supply, etc, etc… Instead, I want to pose the question on how to combine our desires for “green” products, namely fashion in this case, with an affordable price point. I don’t know about you, but every time I go hunting for my favorite style tee in say…100% Organic cotton, I find that it’s vastly overpriced in comparison to its synthetically blended counterparts. Now, I know that sustainable processes do require more specific production and disposal processes thereby making them more expensive, but how do we reverse that standard so that being “eco-friendly” doesn’t cost an arm and leg??????  I welcome any thoughts!!!

 

Deb

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